#HIGH F STOP FULL#

It's all handled by the RAW conversion software. Settings in-camera have no effect on the file at all. Shade - the light in shade is generally cooler (bluer) than shooting in direct sunlight so this mode will warm things up a little. It generally cools down the colors in photos.įluorescent - this compensates for the 'cool' light of fluorescent light and will warm up your shots.ĭaylight/Sunny - not all cameras have this setting because it sets things as fairly 'normal' white balance settings.Ĭloudy - this setting generally warms things up a touch more than 'daylight' mode.įlash - the flash of a camera can be quite a cool light so in Flash WB mode you'll find it warms up your shots a touch. Tungsten - this mode is usually symbolized with a little bulb and is for shooting indoors, especially under tungsten (incandescent) lighting (such as bulb lighting). You'll find it works in many situations but it's worth venturing out of it for trickier lighting.

Fluorescent lighting adds a bluish cast to photos whereas tungsten (incandescent/bulbs) lights add a yellowish tinge to photos.Īuto - this is where the camera makes a best guess on a shot by shot basis.

Get the colors in your images as accurate as possible and some images have different sources of light have a different color or temperature to them. Slow shutter speeds allow more light into the camera sensor and are used for low-light and night photography, while fast shutter speeds help to freeze motion. For example, changing from 1/30 to 1/60 results in half as much light hitting the sensor. Shutter speeds are standardized so that changing the speed will give you either one half or twice as much light (depending on which way you changed it). Second, the longer the shutter is open, the more light reaches the film/sensor, resulting in a brighter overall image. That's because the same object is recorded in multiple places on the film or sensor as the object moves across the frame during the time that the shutter is open. If you alter the length of time the shutter stays open, you can drastically change the kind of image you'll end up with.įirst, at slow shutter speeds - when the shutter stays open for a longer time - objects in motion will appear blurry in the photograph (and everything will get blurry if the camera itself isn't held still).

#HIGH F STOP FULL#

Check out the video above for the full rundown from Morrow and his site for an in-depth article on the topic from him.Īnd if you would like to learn more about landscape photography, be sure to check out ' Photographing The World 1: Landscape Photography and Post-Processing with Elia Locardi.He shutter opens to let light through to the film or electronic sensor, and closes again.

Rather, if you need more depth of field, consider using the hyperfocal distance of your lens or creating a focus stack if you really need need maximum sharpness across the entire image. It is important not to stop down too far, though (generally past f/11 or f/16), as you will start to run into issues with diffraction and will start losing sharpness. Coming to you from Dave Morrow, this great video tutorial discusses choosing the sharpest f-stop setting for landscape images. Most lenses tend to reach their maximum sharpness somewhere around three or four stops beyond their widest aperture, normally somewhere around f/8 or so thus, it is generally good to stop down a bit, especially since you will normally want more depth of field anyway.

High f stop